Traveling in the Philippines with a car is an adventure in itself. RORO ferries promise freedom: you can take your vehicle across islands, set your own pace, and skip the hassle of booking multiple flights. But as we learned on our 2-night family trip to Iloilo City, those promises come with equal parts beauty and chaos.
Let me take you through our journey… From the breathtaking sight of hundreds of jellyfish on the open sea, to the comfort of a modern condo in Iloilo Business Park, and finally, to the frustration of a 7-hour port wait that nearly broke us!
If you’re planning your own inter-island family road trip, I hope this story helps you prepare for both the magic and the madness.
The Journey There: Bacolod to Dumanggas by RORO
We boarded the Tri-Star RORO from Bacolod, Negros Occidental to Dumanggas, Iloilo with our ever-reliable Toyota Innova.
Total cost: ₱1,756 (₱1,000 for the car, ₱386 arastre fee, plus passenger and terminal fees).
The system was first-come, first-served. No reservations, no guarantees. That meant we had to wait until an employee confirmed our car could fit, then scramble to buy tickets at the last minute. If you’ve never done this before, imagine a mix of relief and stress as you inch forward in line, praying your car makes the cut.
Once onboard, though, things felt calmer. My husband called me to look at the black jellyfish surrounding the ship, and it was both mesmerizing and unsettling! I’d only ever seen white, translucent jellyfish before. But these black ones (hundreds of them) looked like dark balloons floating beneath the waves. We joked nervously about how awful it would be to fall in, though the water itself was calm, the sky clear, and the breeze refreshing.
The ferry offered seating upstairs in a huge air-conditioned hall, plus open-air benches outside. My family and I checked it out briefly, but it was crowded, so we retreated to the car instead. Our Innova has already proven itself fuel-efficient even on long RORO rides, so with the aircon blasting on full cold, we simply stretched out and enjoyed the 2-hour ride in private. Honestly, it was the most comfortable way to cross.
First Impressions of Iloilo
From Dumanggas, it took us about an hour to drive into Iloilo City. My dad, who’d been to Dumanggas years ago for work, shared funny stories as we made our way into the city. There were plenty of fish ponds and seafood restaurants lining the coast, but we didn’t stop by as we wanted to check in on time.
The outskirts looked like any typical Philippine city center. I thought it looked pretty similar to downtown Cebu, Mandaue, or Lapu-Lapu. But the moment we entered Iloilo Business Park, everything changed.
Wide streets, polished sidewalks, and towering modern buildings greeted us. It felt more like Cebu IT Park or Cebu Business Park than the usual provincial capital. This area, developed by Megaworld (the same company behind Mactan Newtown), gave the city a cosmopolitan vibe I didn’t expect.
Our Home Base: Saint Honore Executive
We booked a 2-bedroom unit at Saint Honore Executive through Booking.com for 2 nights.
The building’s hotel-like lobby welcomed us with cool air and a faint scent of fresh linen. Our unit was on the 6th floor, a corner space with sweeping views of Iloilo Business Park. We could see SM Iloilo nearby and the glow of the Festive Walk Mall at night.
Inside, the condo felt like a real home. The living room had a giant TV (with Netflix, of course) and a cozy pull-out couch with a colorful throw blanket that gave the place personality.
My parents took the master bedroom, which had its own balcony, while my husband, son, and I shared the second room with the bunk bed. Of course, Marco took the upper bunk. He loved the room because it was decorated with planets and solar system designs, it felt like his own little universe.
The kitchen was fully equipped, though we didn’t cook much, and the bathroom had excellent water pressure and hot/cold options (a blessing after long, sweaty days). The building even had a pool, though we never got around to using it, something we regret. In hindsight, I should have booked at least one more night just to relax.
Day 1: Friday Night in Iloilo
After settling in, we decided to walk around. It was Friday night, and the business park was buzzing. Festive Walk Mall was lit up, the Emperador Brandy Museum stood proudly with food trucks parked outside, and locals strolled the streets enjoying the lively atmosphere.
We walked to Beng’s Seafood, just outside the business park, and picked up dinner. For less than ₱1,000, we had a hearty seafood meal that was both tasty and affordable. Carrying it back through the lively streets, with music playing and the night air cooling down, felt like the perfect start to our Iloilo experience.
Day 2: Church, Food, and Molo Mansion
The next day, we crossed the Iloilo River to head towards the locale of Iloilo City to attend church service. From the outside, their kapilya looked modest, but inside it opened up into a massive, fully air-conditioned hall. That day was especially historic: it was the oath-taking of our assistant executive minister, livestreamed to over 2,000 locales worldwide. Being part of that moment, right there in Iloilo, was both moving and memorable.
Later that afternoon, we headed to Molo Mansion. I thought it would be like The Ruins in Bacolod, a quiet and reflective place. Instead, it was the opposite. Music filled the air, kids ran around the gardens, couples walked their dogs, and food stalls lined one side of the property.
Parking was easy (plenty of space at the back), and the atmosphere was lively. Inside, the mansion itself was a bit underwhelming, mostly filled with Kultura Filipino products you’d also find in SM. But outside, the vibe was festive. We bought pasalubong, grabbed some ice cream for Marco, and settled in for dinner from the on-site restaurants.
It wasn’t historic grandeur that made Molo Mansion special, but its role as a community space, a place where locals and visitors alike gathered to relax, eat, and enjoy the nice weather.
Day 3: The Dumanggas Port Nightmare
Our plan was simple: leave by noon, catch a ferry, and be back in Bacolod well before dinner. Reality had other ideas.
We arrived at Dumanggas Port at 12:30 PM. What followed was seven grueling hours of waiting.
The system was chaotic. Three shipping lines were operating, all reportedly “fully booked” for two or three trips ahead. Our only choice was to wait in line and hope. We chose Montenegro Shipping, which had the shortest queue.
At first, we stayed in the car with the aircon running. By mid-afternoon, hunger struck, so we ventured out to a carinderia outside the port for barbecue and fish. The heat was brutal, the sea breeze was hot and the air sticky, so we hurried back to the sanctuary of our car.
As the hours dragged on, other families began stepping out too, chatting with neighbors and swapping complaints. One man told us, almost casually, “Normal lang yan dito” (That’s normal here). My husband groaned.
By 6:30 PM, we finally got confirmation: our car would make the next trip. We paid at the shipping office and joined the boarding process. Dozens upon dozens of vehicles streamed in. By the time we drove on board, it was past 8 PM.
This wasn’t even a passenger ferry; it was a cargo ship. No seating, no airconditioned hall. Everyone had to stay in their vehicles for the crossing. My husband muttered, “Never again.” My dad, exhausted, said maybe next time we’d just fly. Road trips weren’t for seniors anymore.
I agreed. Dumanggas had tested our patience more than any port before.
Super long lines of cars at the port of Dumanggas in Iloilo
The Journey Home
We landed in Bacolod a couple of hours later, but we couldn’t exit the port immediately. There was a long line of cars making their way to the exit. Turns out we had to pay the port fee; thankfully, we could pay at the exit gate and not have to run back inside the port again.
Anyway, it was pretty close to midnight when we arrived at Nena’s Beth Inasal. There were several tables still occupied, so we weren’t too late. We ordered our food, ate quickly, and pushed on for the mountain drive back to San Carlos City via the Negros Occidental Eco-Tourism Highway.
By the time we reached San Carlos, it was 3 AM. Luckily, I’d booked a family room at the Teacher’s Coop for about ₱1,000, knowing we’d miss the last RORO to Toledo City, Cebu. I didn’t expect to be that late, but the foresight paid off.
The next morning, we took the second FastCat RORO from San Carlos to Toledo (₱3,617 total, with ₱2,500 for the Innova). The first trip left way too early; we were still snoring by then. 😂
What a relief, though, to find that the San Carlos port process was far more organized than Dumanggas. From ticket purchase to boarding, the whole thing took less than an hour. And the best part was they had a proper air-conditioned waiting area where passengers could sit, grab a snack, and relax before boarding.
Our experience at San Carlos port in Negros was much better than in Dumanggas!
By early afternoon, we finally rolled back into Mactan. The drive from Toledo took about 3 hours, just enough time to shake off the ferry fatigue before logging back in for work. At the time, I had no idea that only a month later, I’d be on a call with the COO hearing that my 5.5-year contract was ending (read my blog about it here). Life has a funny way of surprising you. Still, I’m grateful I got to use up those vacation leaves. 😂
Lessons Learned: RORO Family Travel Realities
1. If possible, avoid weekend travel. Ports are busier, lines are longer, and chaos is almost guaranteed.
2. Be ready to wait. Bring snacks, water, and patience. Seven hours may not be unusual in busy ports like Dumanggas, especially during peak travel season.
3. Cars are both blessing and burden. Having our own vehicle made exploration super easy, but the ferry process was exhausting. Each port has their own way of doing things, so first-timers will find it super confusing. Just don’t be shy and ask for help if you need it! You’ll find people are more than willing to help anywhere in the Philippines. 😊
4. Have a backup plan. Book a stopover hotel in case you miss the last ferry. It saved us in San Carlos. Sure, it may be non-refundable, but it will save you lots of stress, especially if traveling with kids and senior family members!
5. Consider fast ferries. Next time, we’ll likely leave the car in Bacolod and take a fast ferry directly to Iloilo City.Practical Summary for Families
Best base: Iloilo Business Park condos (like Saint Honore) are modern, comfortable, and central.
Must-try eats: Beng’s Seafood (budget-friendly), Nena’s Beth Inasal, and ice cream at Molo Mansion.
Best avoided: Dumanggas port on Sundays. Trust me.
Tip for kids: Bring entertainment and snacks for long waits. Indoor play spots like Festive Walk help too.
Alternative: If you’re not attached to having a car, take the fast ferry directly to Iloilo City instead of dealing with Dumanggas.
Final Reflections
Despite the Dumanggas ordeal, Iloilo was worth it. The modern energy of Iloilo City, the joy of Friday nights at the business park, and the community vibe of Molo Mansion, as well as the famed Iloilo River Esplanade, all these made the city feel vibrant and welcoming!
Family travel in the Philippines isn’t always smooth. Kids get restless, seniors get tired, and ferries get delayed. But that’s part of the journey. What matters is that we made memories, both the beautiful and the frustrating, that we’ll be laughing (and grumbling) about for years to come.
Would we go back to Iloilo? Absolutely. But next time, we’ll think twice about bringing the car.
Over to you! Have you ever experienced a RORO nightmare? Or maybe a jellyfish spectacle like ours?
Share your stories in the comments. I’d love to hear how other families navigate the joys and struggles of inter-island travel in the Philippines.